Sugamo's Jizō-dōri is a retro shopping street affectionately called the "Harajuku for grandmas", lined with old-style sweets, tea and clothing shops and the Togenuki Jizō temple said to heal ailments. Relaxed and charmingly old-fashioned. Red underwear is the local good-luck souvenir.
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Photo: Unsplash / Stefano Huang